Gear Review: VA6AM Low Power HF Bandpass Filters

For the past several Field Days, I have enjoyed operating with my friend Ian, W4NAI. Last year on Field Day we ran into issues with multiple radios side by side. The interference was really bad on 20 meters from another radio on 40 meters. This year we wanted to get a jump on it as we have a unique Field Day location planned. After doing a bit of a survey, I landed on the kits from VA6AM. While I could buy filters, I find it more fun to construct the filter myself. In this kit alone I’ve greatly improve making tight wraps on toroids and learning how to fix issues.

I had a few project boxes and standoffs already so I started off with the mechanical layout. I used the PCB to figure out the mounting holes and a melted SO-239 for the holes on the coax connections. To get the hole large enough, I used a step bit. It should be noted that the enclosure is the ground and is connected to the PCB by the standoffs, so it was critical to have those be conductive.

The instructions started off winding the input/output toroids. These are unique in that they are actually a transformer and the secondary coil has a proportional number of wraps to the first.

With the toroids made, I soldered on the input/out put capacitors and mounted the toroids. VA6AM has you tune the circuits to the same frequency. This is done by soldering on a bit of coax and reading it on the VNA. I ended up spreading the coils a bit for them to match and spent a while playing with them. If you look at the photo, you can see there wraps are not super tight. In the end, that cost be a bit of insertion loss (about 0.2 dB) and out of band attenuation (about 6 dB). The filter pictured is for 20 meters, but the 40 meter filter had better results (about 0.4 dB insertion loss and my out of band attenuation was on par with expected).

My construction wasn’t perfect. I accidentally mounted one set of capacitors wrong and had to fix it. It isn’t pretty, but it is functional. The good news is I only made this mistake on one set of capacitors and made sure I was correct on the remaining ones.

You might notice some Kapton tape in the photo. I used the tape to protect the toroids that sit above the solder joints from getting scratched. I use Kapton tape a lot with 3D printing, but it is also helpful for electronics as it resistive to heat and durable.

The final assembly of the filter was a success. I achieved less than 0.5 dB of insertion loss on both filters across the band. I saw at least 53 dB of rejection on adjacent bands. So these two filters achieve about 100 dB of attenuation between 20 and 40 meters. Testing with the radio, noting got hot with my usual 35 watts of FT8 or 100 watts of SSB and the SWR was 1.2 at the worst, so very happy with how everything came together. I labeled all the details on the project boxes for reference so we know what to expect on Field Day.

With the success of the these two filters, I’ve order 10, 15, and 80 meter kits to assemble before Field Day!

Gear Review: ATU-100-OA

This is a review of an ATU-100-OA tuner from Amazon. First, it should be known this tuner is the same as the open source N7DDC tuner. Basically a company in China is manufacturing them and selling them on Amazon (affiliate link below).

The tune does work and can tune reasonably well. I found success with my end fed antenna with my California POTA back in October. However, the tuner required some tweaking first. The manufacturer is running the 3.1 firmware on the tuner with the default settings. This means the tuner needs 5 watts to tune. On my California POTA activation I was running QRP with a max of about 5 watts from my FT-818. In order for the tuner to work, I had to change the firmware to tune with less than 5 watts. This change required me to open up the tuner, solder on some lead wires and modify the EEPROM.

I set my tuner to work around 3 watts. There is some conflicting reports on the accuracy at lower power and I felt confident I could reasonably get to 3 watts to first tune the antenna. That change was smooth, but required a PicKit to do the programming. I’m putting in an affiliate link to the one I used below in case you also want to do the modification.

So why go though this hassle? This tune is small. If you look at the title image, you can see its about as wide as my key and about twice as long. It packs up nicely with my FT-818s. It also does not require any interface with the radio to work. It has a fairly large matching range and easily works with an end-fed half wave antenna. So this little things checks a lot of boxes.

But there are some things to be warned: the tuner has issues holding a charge and its particular on its cables. The battery drains if not plugged in, so for a quick trip it is great, but for longer treks, plan to bring a USB-C cable and a power pack. Also you cant use just any USB-C. It seems to only like USB-A to USB-C cables.

Overall its an okay bit of kit. It can be made serviceable if you’re willing to tinker (and I suggest you upgrade the firmware while you have it open) and it has a small size. But I’m not sure I would depend on this tuner. The battery draining on its own is really an issue. I really wanted to like it, but I think the manufacturers needs to spend a little more time polishing their product. Note there are a bunch of folks selling this tuner or clones of it, so who knows, you might find one that works better. That said, the seller for this one did link me to the open source project to tinker with it. So while not super useful, at least they did respond.